For some reason I had trouble getting my bearings in Seville. I found that taking a trip up the 34 flights (a ramp, not stairs) to the top of the Giralda Tower was the perfect way to get a feel for the layout of the city. It costs 7 euros to visit the Cathedral of Seville and the Tower, and I think it is worth it for the view. But if you want to visit the cathedral and save some bucks, just go during one of the daily masses to see the main hall only, not the tower.
When I arrived in Seville by regional bus I then took a local city bus (urbano) to the old town. I stayed in a wonderful neighborhood, the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish corner of the city, although not hilly like Lisbon’s Alfama, it had a similar feel and is truly impossible to navigate without getting lost at least once. I loved it!
Leaving Seville by train was fairly easy to do, and depending on where you stay in the city, it might be easiest to just walk to the Santa Junta station with your backpack, which is what I did. I didn’t feel like paying for a taxi, and it was only about a fifteen minute walk. When you arrive at Santa Junta, you’ll probably have to make a reso for your train, so head to the RENFE Travel Information Center and take a number. They used this system a lot in Spain, at the train station, and the post office too, just like at the deli counter back home in the states. The Venta Anticipada signs are the ones to look for.